Análise das práticas representacionais do mercado da moda “sem gênero”

Abstract

Gender is commonly associated with something binary, in which there are two distinct and opposing sexes. This binarity has already reproduced several stereotypes, establishing "normal" (and therefore "abnormal") patterns in our society. However, today, several discussions aimed at a break with this binary thinking have been exposed in the most diverse types of media. This change has also manifested itself in various categories of consumption, among which, a "genderless" fashion. This research, although involving gender issues, aims at the construction of the market. Ontologically, considers the understanding of Araujo and Kjellberg (2009) - which suggests a change in "marketing" as a whole "market-ing", as a set of practices that contribute to the construction of markets and other economic orders – their theoretical basis being fundamental in the market-making literature, which involves assumptions that marketing knowledge is performative and shapes markets. Like Golfetto and Rinallo (2006), we directed this study to the role that has a representation in the elaboration of the markets. The representations are fundamental in their elaboration, being linked to their performativity and contributing to a formation of the phenomena they represent. A network of agents (actresses and actors) involved in the "genderless" fashion market (media, stylists, brands), which is a proposal of the same would be in "neutral pieces that run away from historical and cultural stereotypes - clothes that are disconnected also of the old idea of unisex "(SANCHEZ; SCHMITT, 2016). However, what would these items of consumer goods be without gender? What does this market mean by "genderless"? How do you represent your proposal? Is not this just a market segmentation strategy? Therefore, this study aims to investigate how recreational practices describe the "genderless" fashion market. This is a research that is characterized as qualitative, with a critical bias and, considering that the discourse contained in these practices assumes a relevant role, it adopts the Critical Discourse Analysis (ACD) as a theoretical-methodological apparatus, it follows the analysis parameter of the Multimodal Discourse Theory (MACHIN, MAYR, 2012). A collection of data was performed in a virtual environment (images and texts about the "genderless" fashion market), after an initial survey, five different types of online media were defined and analyzed. (Gender Fluid, Neutral Style, Agender, Ungendered, Genderless or No Gender), are also multiple, as representations that define this fashion market. Thus, during an analysis, multiple market versions emerged (KJELLBERG; HELGESSON, 2006). Sometimes, a fashion "genderless" brings an idea of (1) revolutionary movement; at other times, there is a (2) homogenization for one of the genders (male/female); as well as certain representative practices point to just a different name attributed to an already existing (3) market segment. This work seeks to contribute, in a critical way, to the study of market practice, observing the phenomenon during a market formation, at the beginning of a construction process, or rather than that, at the "in the making" moment.